Hangzhou’s legendary West Lake conjures images of sweeping willows and morning mist along the shores of China’s most famous and revered of lakes.
Heralded as one of the most romantic cities in China, Hangzhou is ripe with historic and sensual sites to enchant the amorous and curious who make their way here. Just over 200km southwest of Shanghai, Hangzhou requires only a short jaunt to scratch the surface its charming pagodas, the timeless West Lake and modern amenities.
What really put Hangzhou on the proverbial map is the Grand Canal (dà yùnhé 大运河). Built during the Sui dynasty, the Grand Canal was a massive network of canals and waterways linking Hangzhou to the north. Food and goods were shipped from the agriculturally rich south to supply the comparatively desolate north, Hangzhou quickly developed into an important center of transportation and trade.
Hangzhou’s height came when the Song dynasty court was driven from its capital at Kaifeng by northern invaders, and the Song court resettled in here and made it the imperial capital of the Southern Song dynasty. A population boom followed and the city flourished economically and culturally. Song influences still abound throughout the city – from the food to the language.
Qing emperor Kangxi was especially charmed by the Lingyin Temple (língyǐn sì 灵隐寺), and one of his couplets is inscribed on the Hall of Four Heavenly Guardians (tiānwáng diàn天王殿) which stands at the front of the temple. This celebrated temple was originally built in AD 326, despite being destroyed and rebuilt 16 times over; it remains one of Hangzhou’s main attractions. At the back of the temple is a giant 19.6m camphor wood statue of Buddha. If it’s not too crowded, the serenity of the grounds will let you feel as tranquil as Buddha. The Lingyin Temple Scenic Area (língyǐn sì jǐngqū灵隐寺景区) is huge; the area includes the temple and the mini-mountain Feilai Peak (fēilái fēng飞来峰). In one section of the park are large Buddhist rock carvings – explore the grounds and you’ll discover many quaint photogenic scenes.
Other attractions rest on Hangzhou’s historic silk and tea production, both of which boomed after it was connected to the Grand Canal at the end of the 6th century, a fact not lost on visitors who make their way to the China Silk Museum (zhōngguó sīchóu bówùguǎn 中国丝绸博物馆) to purchase choice fabrics or to the Dragon Well Tea Village (lóngjǐng wènchá 龙井问茶) to imbibe sweet drinks. If highbrow elbow rubbing is to your liking, follow the flocks to Xihu Tiandi (xīhú tiāndì 西湖天地). Located on the southern shore of West Lake, this trendy cluster of shops beckons with bamboo lined cobblestone walkways. It’s quickly becoming the hottest place to be seen, but the Six Harmonies Pagoda (liùhé tǎ 六和塔) is still one of the coolest places to see. This 60m octagonal giant once served as a lighthouse and rises in the southwest of the city overlooking the calm Qiantang River. Head behind the pagoda and follow the footpath that winds past sculptures and shrines.
For a dose of heroism, visit the Mausoleum of General Yue Fei (yuè feī mù 岳飞墓). Inside a red brick chamber sits a stoic statue of the mighty general, the Southern Song dynasty’s most talented defender against 12th century Jürchen hordes. This famed patriot was the Southern Song dynasty’s greatest hope for survival in face of a determined invader, but due to palace intrigue, he was stripped of his post and murdered in prison. He was posthumously rehabilitated and his tomb and that of his son now stand in the quiet temple grounds. Nearby are four iron statues of his tormentors kneeling in shame, temple visitors used to spit at these statues, though this practice is now prohibited.
The lunar tidal bore phenomenon on the Qiantang River (qiántáng jiāng 钱塘江) is most spectacular around September or throughout the year at high tide. During these times, a massive wall of water is pulled inland to Qiantang’s shallows. The best views are in the town of Yanguan, 38km northeast of Hangzhou, though it’s also viewable in Hangzhou. A word of caution, this rushing wall of water has killed those who got sucked in, so don’t get too close.
SECRETS OF WEST LAKE
There are 36 West Lakes throughout China, but Hangzhou’s West Lake (xī hú 西湖) is the inspiration for them all. Originally a lagoon, it was dredged in the 8th century and later diked. Sidestepping the vacationing masses and trinket hawkers, there’s plenty to do at this 3km by 3km lotus lined lake. Mist shrouds the jade-hued water as the sunrises and sets while sentinel trees line the surrounding boulevards and it’s bordered by three hills that hem it like a pillow cradling a liquid gem. Graceful gardens lull as one meanders through paths to welcoming temples.
The Baidi Causeway (bāidī 白堤), on the north shore of the lake, links up with Solitary Hill (gū shān 孤山), a large island brimming with plants and grassy parks. Wander past inviting park benches, cross bridges where old men fly kites, then enter a honeycomb of tree-shrouded pagodas where snacks and beverages are served. You can enjoy quenching refreshments at several outdoor cafés or inside aged pagodas. A good way to get a better view of the lakeside scenery is to rent a pedal boats. Churn around the northern edge of the lake and take in the rich views. If the lake is calm, the reflection of Baoshi Shan (bǎoshí shān 宝石山) on the water is amazing. If you feel like watching things swim about, the Flower Harbor (huāgǎng guānyú 花港观鱼), home to thousands of obese carp is a must-see.
Follow the Sudi Causeway (sūdīi 苏堤) as it shoots across the lake like an arrow. From there you can spot the Three Pools Mirroring the Moon (sāntán yìnyuè 三潭印月) and the Lesser Yingzhou (xiǎo yíngzhōu 小瀛洲) islands, which look like submerged tortoises with trees and temples growing on them. The islands themselves have quaint pagodas and are excellent for viewing the pools. Standing over the lake are three towers cut with five holes apiece. During the Mid-Autumn Festival (zhōngqiū jié中秋节), which usually falls around late-September, glowing candles are placed in these niches creating a flickering effect that dances along the lakeshore. For this spectacle, it’s best to rent or hire a boat – an old Mid-Autumn Festival tradition where revelers would come to the lake to admire the moon while sipping tea and laughing with friends.
The Zhejiang Provincial Museum (zhèjiāngshěng bówùguǎn 浙江省博物馆) is on the Baidi Causeway and features displays of natural and regional history. Some of the more interesting exhibits include small figurines which were thrown into the lake to placate the lake spirits. The Qing emperor Qianlong once lived in part of the museum when vacationing in Hangzhou. Leaving the Baidi Causeway onto Beishan Lu, there’s a splendid walkway to the top of Baoshi Shan where you can marvel at a 19th century tower that seems oddly Victorian. The paths further snakes through rock carvings and dark chambers. Hearty trekkers can climb over weathered boulders for a view of the lake, which is best at dawn when the mist hangs like pipe smoke over the lake. If you’re into flowers, then head east to the florid Hangzhou Botanical Gardens (hángzhōu zhíwù yuán 杭州植物园) where orchids and ferns flourish in balmy hothouses.