Heritage: Huang Shan, Xidi & Hong Villages
Huang Shan has been a major tourist destination since ancient times and still captures the imagination of those who have glimpsed its jade mountains protruding through the frosty mists.
Huang Shan, which means Yellow Mountain, has been a well-known destination for scholars, poets and the occasional recluse, all seeking personal inspiration and enlightenment – when you visit you will easily appreciate why.
Situated in the southern portion of the agriculturally rich Anhui Province and bordering Jiangxi and Zhejiang provinces, the picturesque Huang Shan has long been effusively described as “awesome,” “a wonderland” and “Heaven on Earth.” The formation of the remarkable peaks and breathtakingly sharp precipices has been attributed to the many thousands of years of geological activity on the imposing granite mountains, creating the astounding natural wonder visible today.
During the Qin dynasty, the mountain was called Black Mountain (yī shān 黟山) because of the dark color of its cliffs. Legend has it that Tang dynasty emperor Xuanzong, who reigned during the Tang’s golden age, changed the name of the mountains to Huang Shan because the legendary Huang Emperor was thought to have made his pills of immortality here.
The Huang Shan Scenic Area (huáng shān jǐngqū 黄山景区) extends about 40km from north to south and 30km from east to west. As an important national scenic area, Huang Shan was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1990 and as a result, the park is very well kept and amazingly enough in China, a no-smoking zone is strictly enforced.
There are 72 peaks in total with Lotus Peak (liánhuā fēng 莲花峰), Brightness Apex (guāngmíng dǐng 光明顶) and the Celestial Capital Peak (tiāndū fēng 天都峰) being the three major ones, all towering above 1,800m. Although 1,800m might not seem too awe-inspiring at first, the sheer steepness of the peaks and sense of remoteness one gets when on Huang Shan coupled with frequent “weak knees” will make you think otherwise.
As you initially ascend the mountain, you’ll come across stunted pine trees contorted into curious shapes. What’s more amazing is that these gnarled trees sprout from rocks that are just as oddly shaped. Eroded by wind and time, the rock formations, together with the stunted pines growing off them, have long been the muse of many painters and poets. The gnarled trees and craggy rocks are the subject of numerous traditional Chinese paintings and poems and have become a recognized symbol of Huang Shan. If you see such a painting, chances are Huang Shan was the inspiration for the work.
Ever wondered what it would be like to float on a sea of clouds? At Huang Shan you can – or at least get a close approximation. The sea of clouds in the Beihai Scenic Area (běihǎi jǐngqū 北海景区) is ever-changing and unpredictable; one moment you’ve got the picture-perfect shot of a twisted pine on the next peak and in the next, it has disappeared, engulfed in a swirl of mist and clouds. Resulting from the “now you see it, now you don’t” effect, a certain surreal quality develops which can make you feel rather like an immortal.
There are hot springs at the foot of Huang Shan, at Purple Cloud Peak (zǐxiá fēng 紫霞峰). For those aching after a strenuous but unforgettable climb, this opportunity should be utilized to pamper those tired and aching legs and feet. First tapped over a thousand years ago, the clear waters remain at a constant 40°C year round and can be used for drinking and bathing, though not at the same time and from different pools. Special therapeutic baths and swimming pools have been built around the natural springs.
RECOMMENDED ROUTE
There are two main ways of getting to the top of Huang Shan, by foot or by cable car. A recommended route is to take the cable car up, ascending from the east side of the mountain to reach the Beihai (běihǎi北海), stay overnight at the summit and catch the magical sunrise, then descend by foot down the western side of the mountain. The western side is a lot steeper and isn’t for the faint of heart. Although the scenery serves as a good distraction, don’t be too distracted and lose your footing. If you do decide to climb the mountain, it’s a 3-hour, 7.5km climb from the east and a hefty 15km from the western approach, which will take at least twice as much time.
On the eastern side of Huang Shan close to the summit, is the Begin-to-Believe Peak (shǐxìn fēng 始信峰). It’s probably the most visited peak in Huang Shan due to its deep chasms and classic Huang Shan scenery. Along the way you might notice many locks clasped around the chain railings – these locks are meant to represent everlasting love. Couples romantically fasten their locks and throw the key off the peak, thereby cementing their relationship.
The Beihai Scenic Area is at the summit of Huang Shan. Paths are newly paved and well kept. This is the best place to view the sunrise above the eternal sea of clouds and pine tree-studded peaks.
Flying Rock (fēilái shí 飞来石) in the western part of the summit area is a huge pear-shaped rock 10m high perched precariously on top of the peak. Steps leading to the top of the peak have one dubious looking handrail allowing the brave to really experience being on top of the world if your eyes dare to stay open.
Along the central axis of the mountain is the Brightness Apex (guāngmíng dǐng 光明顶) at 1,840m, this is the second highest peak on Huang Shan which it separates the physically challenging western side from the more gentle eastern side. This is a good place to contrast the two faces.
Jade Screen Pavilion (yùpíng lóu 玉屏楼) is also known as the Jade Screen of Heaven. These fantastic sheer cliff faces feature unique rock formations with green pines. It looks like a giant Chinese landscape painting brought to life.
On the western side Lotus Peak (liánhuā fēng 莲花峰) is Huang Shan’s highest peak. Surrounded by a group of lower peaks, Lotus Peak looks like a lotus flower in full bloom. The top of the peak offers panoramic views of Huang Shan though sore and wobbly legs are also inevitably part of the deal.
The Celestial Capital Peak (tiāndū fēng 天都峰) faces Lotus Peak in the west. At 1,829m, it’s the steepest peak, but a stone stairway is cut into the near vertical cliff face and those wanting to venture up, much of it on all fours, are aided by heavy chains hammered into the rock face. This stone stairway can easily be spotted from afar as a thin white line creeping up to the summit. It should be noted that during winter this peak may be closed. Even so, just looking at the peak is mind-blowing enough to give anyone vertigo.
After leaving the Huang Shan Scenic Area, in Tunxi there is an old trading street known as Tunxi Ancient Street (túnxī lǎojiē 屯溪老街). This 1.5km street has been a bustling center of trade since the Southern Song dynasty, taking its present day form during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Paved with bluestone, the street is lined on both sides with old shops in an unmistakable Huizhou architectural style characterized by fine woodcarvings on lattice windows and doors. The shops retain the essence of traditional stores of yesteryear, selling wares such as traditional medicines and local specialties including Shexian ink stones, Huang Shan Maofeng tea and Huizhou ink sticks.
In Yixian County (yīxiàn 黟县), not far from Huang Shan, there are two very interesting villages worth visiting. The first is Hong Village (hóngcūn 宏村) where the movie “Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon” was partly shot. Hong Village was first built during the Southern Song dynasty, approximately 900 years ago, by the Wang clan. During the Ming dynasty, Wang Siqi, a powerful retired government official, hired a famous fengshui expert to come and review the layout of the village which resulted in the addition of a lake and water channels flowing through nearly every household within the village.
In the center of the village is a beautiful pond surrounded by houses and the Wang Clan Hall (wāngshì cítáng 汪氏祠堂) where banquets and important clan gatherings were held. Today, many artists can be seen sitting beside the pond putting the tranquil setting onto canvas. The scenery and village itself is so inspiring that many young artists rent rooms and extend their stay.
Close to Hong Village is Xidi (xīdì 西递), which is notable for the many archways that line the road to the village. In the past, it was a status symbol of wealth and distinction to build grand archways, so the bigger the better. Because many rich merchants once lived here, there are scores of archways in this hidden area. Each archway is made of local marble and is carved in typical Anhui style, decorated with multiple reliefs.
The houses in Xidi are also remarkable because the local merchants, in order to protect their families and belongings from bandits, built their dwellings with very high walls and small, if any, windows. As a result, strolling through Xidi, one can feel the insular atmosphere that must have permeated throughout the village, especially when walking down the narrow alleyways between the walls of two dwellings. Within the walls, the exquisite woodcarvings and delicately created reliefs throughout the entire dwelling confirm the wealth of its owner and the opulence the family once enjoyed.