Nanjing has seen its shares of ups and downs – from an imperial capital to the capital of the Taiping Rebellion in Chinese history and later became capital of the Republic of China. Sights telling the story of China’s past and memorials to the events that shaped modern China are strewn all over this pleasant city.
The capital of Jiangsu has seen its fair share of crucial historical events. With the Yangtze River on one side, surrounded by the Purple Mountain and shielded by massive city walls, Nanjing was perceived as impenetrable – but the city has been destroyed and rebuilt on several occasions. Today Nanjing is the capital of Jiangsu Province, one of China’s most economically vibrant provinces, receiving a big chunk of the foreign investments in China.
Nanjing, meaning “southern capital,” was the seat of six dynasties and more recently, the Republic of China when under Nationalist leadership. In the context of Chinese politics, Nanjing came into the spotlight when a peasant revolt ousted the Yuan dynasty from the city in 1356. The rebel leader later became the first emperor of the Ming dynasty. Nanjing was bombarded by the British during the First Opium War, which lasted from 1840 to 1842, and the subsequent Treaty of Nanjing, the first of the “unequal treaties” that China was forced to sign after its defeat gave foreign powers privileges over China that would cripple the nation. During the Taiping Rebellion, from 1850 to 1864, Nanjing was made capital by rebels who controlled most of southern and central China. The city was renamed “The Heavenly Capital” and only with the help of foreign powers and after untold carnage, was the Qing dynasty able to retake Nanjing. In the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom History Museum (tàipíng tiānguó lìshǐ bówùguǎn太平天国历史博物馆), the tale of one of the most astounding rebellions in Chinese history is told. The leader of the rebels, Hong Xiuquan was the self-professed little brother of Jesus and ruled under the name of Heavenly King. He was able to gather an army strong enough to nearly topple the Qing dynasty. Another museum, newly renovated and well-equipped, is the Nanjing Museum (nánjīng bówùguǎn 南京博物馆) exhibiting bronze vessels, jade, ceramics and calligraphy.
Sun Yat-sen (Sūn Zhōngshān孙中山), who became president of the Republic of China after the Qing dynasty fell in 1911, also made Nanjing the national capital, until the Japanese attacked the city, which remains a sensitive issue between China and Japan. The Japanese soldiers, frustrated by a surprisingly dogged defense by Chinese troops, unleashed their frustrations on the Nanjing’s civilian populace when the Nationalist forces were eventually routed. When Japanese forces entered the city on December 13, 1937, an estimated 300,000 Nanjing residents were killed by marauding Japanese in a condoned and orchestrated orgy of rape and murder that lasted six weeks. Bayonet practices on live victims, forcing captives to dig their own graves before being buried alive, indiscriminate slaughter and rape of children and the elderly would terrorize Nanjing. A grotesque competition between two Japanese officers to see who could behead the most victims was eventually called a tie after both claimed over a hundred heads. The victims of the massacre are commemorated at the somber Nanjing Massacre Memorial Hall (nánjīng dàtúshā jìniànguǎn南京大屠杀纪念馆), which is built over the site of a mass grave. Documents, videos and graphic pictures documenting the violence are exhibited, as is the site of the mass grave itself. Sadly, like the Holocaust, revisionists continue to refute the events that occurred and the lack of a formal apology and scant coverage in Japanese history texts remains a point of contention for many in Asia.
Surrounding Nanjing is a 33.5km long city wall with an average height of 12m and width of 8m, but unfortunately the walls are no longer complete. Built from 1366 to 1386, it was one of the longest city walls ever constructed. Zhonghua Men (zhōnghuá mén中华门), the most imposing gate, still stands and is open for visits into its cavernous hall. Within the city wall, there are few older buildings, and most major historical sights are on the Purple Mountain on the eastern side of the city. The exceptions are the14th century Drum Tower (gǔ lóu鼓楼) and the Bell Tower (zhōng lóu钟楼) in the center of the city. However, along the Qinhuai River (qínhuái hé秦淮河) an old neighborhood in typical southern Chinese style has been rebuilt as a pedestrian thoroughfare. The atmosphere is authentic Chinese market bustle – loud and bustling, even if the buildings are new. The area has many shops, teahouses and restaurants which make for a good way to pass a couple hours. Also in the area is the Confucius Temple (fūzǐ miào夫子庙), once a center of learning, with an imperial examination hall nearby. The present buildings are Qing era or new reconstructions.
The Yangtze River Bridge (nánjīng chángjiāng dàqiáo南京长江大桥) is the pride of modern Nanjing. The 4.5km-long bridge is a key point for traffic between north and south China. Work on this double-decker bridge commenced in 1961 and was finished in 1968. A ferry link was used to cross the mighty river prior its construction.
History aside, Nanjing is a very pleasant city with almost every street flanked by trees and there are plenty of parks and lakes. The Xuanwu Lake (xuánwǔ hú玄武湖) is a popular spot for an outing with pavilions and small pagodas and Chinese families splashing around in boats. Another enjoyable park, though once an execution ground, is also the Martyr’s Cemetery (lièshì língyuán烈士陵园) a memorial to the Communists who lost their lives battling the Nationalists.
PURPLE MOUNTAIN
The Purple Mountain (zǐjīn shān紫金山), at the eastern edge of the city, is home to many of Nanjing’s historical sights. A full day is needed explore all the sights. The newest addition to the field of sights is the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum (zhōngshān líng 中山陵). After Sun Yat-sen, revered as the leading force in bringing down the Qing dynasty, died in 1925, his burial ground, fit for an emperor, was built. Pass through massive gates and climb 392 marble steps and you’ll arrive in front of the mausoleum with white walls and a bright blue-tiled roof. A larger than life statue of Sun Yat-sen, appropriate for a man whose adventures included being kidnapped by Qing agents in London, greets you in the entrance to the main hall. Inscribed on the wall are his three principles for national salvation – nationalism, democracy and people’s livelihood. In the round crypt is Sun Yat-sen’s casket with a carved statue of him reclining. Behind the tomb is a small garden and a photographic exhibition from the early years of the Chinese republic. There’s a great view over the lush green Purple Mountain from the top steps that lead up to the mausoleum – that is, when the weather permits it. The hills are often obscured by clouds and mist that lends the area an enchanting atmosphere.
The Linggu Temple (línggǔ sì灵谷寺), a short walk from the mausoleum, rents bicycles, an ideal way to go from sight to sight around Purple Mountain. The centerpiece of the Linggu Temple is the 60m tall Linggu Pagoda (línggǔ tǎ灵谷塔). Moved here from the Tomb of Hongwu in 1381, it was destroyed during the Taiping Rebellion and rebuilt again in 1911 to commemorate those who died fighting to overthrow the Qing dynasty. The only remaining building on the premises is the Beamless Hall (wúliáng diàn无梁殿), 22m high and 54m wide, and was built solely with bricks.
East of Sun Yat-sen’s mausoleum is another mausoleum, the Tomb of Hongwu (míngxiào líng明孝陵), the rebel turned emperor, Zhu Yuanzhang. He was born a peasant, did a stint as a monk, turned rebel to eventually become the first emperor of the Ming dynasty under the reign title Hongwu. The 13 other emperors of the Ming dynasty are buried near Beijing in the Ming Tombs – the capital was moved from Nanjing to Beijing after one of his sons usurped power from the chosen heir. The mausoleum was built between 1381 and 1383 and required over 100,000 laborers. Of most interest here is the “spirit way” leading up to the mausoleum. 12 pairs of stone animals flank the path; elephants, camels, horses and mythical beasts, a style also used at the better known Ming Tombs north of Beijing.
If time allows for it the Purple Mountain Observatory (zǐjīn shān tiānwéntái 紫金山天文台) is worth a visit – if for nothing else but for the view. It was built in 1929 and there’s a cable car ride to the top, 350m above sea level.