Heritage: Confucius Temple, Confucius Mansions, Confucius Cemetery
Qufu is legendary for the Chinese as the birthplace of Confucius, that ancient sage and teacher whose impact continues to influence Chinese education, politics, and thought.
Pleasant street markets and an air of historic importance mark Qufu as a great introduction to Chinese culture and one of China’s most endearing legacies. It’s easy to spend a few days in Qufu exploring the three major sights related to Confucius (Kǒngzǐ孔子): the Confucius Mansions (kǒng fǔ孔府), where the Sage and some 70 generations of his descendents once lived; the Confucius Temple (kǒng miào孔庙) and the Confucius Cemetery (kǒng lín孔林), a forest cemetery where Confucius and many of his deceased clan members rest.
Qufu’s history is directly linked to Confucius. Legend states that he was born in a cave 60km to the east of Qufu in 551 BC, during the Spring and Autumn Period. Confucius settled in modern day Qufu, a pauper, after years of unsuccessfully wandering through various kingdoms in hopes of influencing rulers to adopt his teachings. It was only after his death in 479 BC that his ideas gained prominence.
The mansion and temple areas were only open to the Confucius family (Kong family) and visiting emperors; it was forbidden ground for commoners. As a measure of how much prestige the Kong family held, they were given the right to make laws and pass ordinances in Qufu. Over time the Kong family’s statue grew to the point where they were considered equal to the imperial family.
Over the years, the mansion and temple saw substantial expansions, turning the complex into a sprawling spectacle that occupies nearly 20% of modern Qufu. Song, Ming and Qing dynasties architecture abound throughout the city, making strolls along Qufu’s clean streets ascetically pleasing, as well as adding to the historic charm of the city. The architecture will transport you to another time. Buildings with beautiful red and yellow tiled roofs and striking pointed eaves greet the eye.
The main south gate (wànrèn gōngqiáng万仞宫墙) marks the beginning of the temple. The gate is reminiscent of an old castle wall and passing through the gate’s large iron studded red doors foreshadow the grandeur held within. The square just beyond the gate features a bustling market packed with vendors hawking vegetable pancakes and various trinkets, it makes you wonder how good of a bargainer Confucius was.
Upon entering the temple grounds, the noise of the market subsides and the tranquility of the temple brings out the scholar in us all. Quiet courtyards are home to withered pines so old they require support from metal poles. Numerous steles, honoring Confucius and his disciples, are found through the temple. Many of the steles, bearing dedications carved into the stone face, were dedicated by past emperors. Most of the steles are in the south and central portion of the temple, the steles are supported by a fabled creature akin to a tortoise. If you can’t read Chinese, a highly recommended booklet introducing the most important steles and buildings is available throughout the temple.
In the center of the temple is the Kuiwen Pavilion (kuíwén gé奎文阁), the tallest and most prominent building in the temple. This ornately decorated three-storey hall is topped with a three-tiered tiled roof and gives some idea to the wealth and influence of the Kong family. The current pavilion dates to 1504; it was originally a library to store The Analects (lúnyǔ论语), a collection of Confucius’ sayings, known popularly in the West as “Confucius says….”
In this area of the temple is a cluster of 13 pavilions housing more steles honoring the Sage and his disciples – these steles were sponsored by important personages, such as emperors and nobles. Standing here is the Pavilion of Gold Tablet (jīnbēi ting 金碑亭), the oldest building in the temple.
Passing through Dacheng Gate (dàchéng mén大成门) brings you into the northern section of the temple, which leads into three courtyards. Just inside the gate is where a juniper tree was allegedly planted by Confucius, though the current tree was planted by a Qing dynasty emperor. In the same courtyard is the Apricot Altar (xìngtán 杏坛), where it’s said Confucius gave his erudite lectures to his disciples. The altar is one of the most important places in the Chinese cultural world. Chinese tourists will wait for up to 30 minutes to have their picture taken next to the famous sight.
Behind the altar is the Dacheng Hall (dàchéng diàn大成殿), the main hall of the temple. The hall was originally higher than those in the Forbidden City and had to be lowered to avoid offending the emperor. This Qing dynasty hall boasts a double roof of glazed tiles and 28 magnificently carved 6m tall stone pillars on the southern side. According to legend, when emperors dropped by, the stone pillars had to be covered with red silk to prevent the emperor from becoming jealous of the quality of work. Inside is a brightly painted statue of Confucius where people continue to pay their respects to the ancient Sage. The solemn faces and deep bows are evidence of his continued influence; even in modern times his teachings remain relevant.
Emerging from the temple via the east exit is a quaint square where hawkers ply their wares. To the south is the ancient Bell Tower (zhōng lóu 钟楼) and to the east is the Drum Tower (gǔ lóu鼓楼). South of the Bell Tower, with its delicate and painstaking artwork, is the Queli Arch (quèlǐ fǎng 阙里坊), where emperors once went for after dinner strolls.
To the northeast of the temple is the maze-like Confucius Mansion where Confucius and his descendants once lived, the present complex built during the Ming dynasty and expanded during the Qing dynasty. The temple’s ornate decorations and grand scale is toned down in the mansion complex. The real charm of the mansion is in its beautifully decorated living quarters that offer a glimpse into the daily life of ancient Chinese aristocrats.
The southern part of the mansion is the administrative area. This is where guests were greeted and official business conducted. Follow one of the three main paths that meander through various halls and work areas. Along the eastern path is a tower that served as a final place of refuge in case unruly peasants staged an uprising. The Kongs, being practical folk, also used it as the Kong family treasury.
The central area of the mansion is where the family once lived. While strolling through the narrow grey lanes, it’s easy to imagine the voice of young Kongs reciting the words of their influential ancestor and the footsteps of hundreds of servants, who once served this privileged family, echoing off the walls.
The rearmost part of the mansion is a pleasant garden and pool, which must have inspired many descendants of the Sage while they contemplated his ancient wisdom. There’s no need to rush through the temple and mansion, a half-day is more than enough.
A short 10-minute taxi ride or 20-minute walk to the north of the mansion will bring you to the Confucius Cemetery, which is a park and cemetery. The walled cemetery is expansive, about 2km – A good half day will be required to see all of the tombs in this ancient forest. Even today Confucius’ descendants are buried here to rest alongside the illustrious teacher.
The quiet forest is sprinkled with pavilions, ceremonial archways and assorted trees according to tradition, each of Confucius’ disciples planted a tree from his native province. Shady trails lined with stern stone guardians allow for quiet strolls, it’s in this forest where you really get a sense of timelessness. Confucius’ tomb and those of his son and grandson lie near the main gate of the forest in the southern section. Near the Sage’s tomb is a hut where one of Confucius’ disciples lived guarding his teacher’s tomb. The rest of the Kong graves lie in a separate section of the forest. It’s possible to rent a bike for around RMB 10. Bargaining is advised. A quick bus tour that stops at some of the better-known tombs is also available, though Confucius’ t
omb is not included in the tour. The bus tour is RMB 10 and will take 15 to 20 minutes. For a slower pace, going by foot or bike is a better option. This way you can get away from the crowds and enjoy the tranquility at your own speed.
Also of interest in Qufu is the Six Arts City (liùyì chéng 六艺城) in the southern part of Qufu. Here they have recreations of life in Confucius’ day and there’s a mockup of ancient Qufu. The Six Arts City is approximately a 5-minute taxi ride south from the temple and mansion complex.