Inactive volcanoes, crystal-clear lakes and looming trees – the unspoiled natural beauty of Changbai Shan rewards the intrepid travelers who make their way out to this northern diamond.
For nature buffs, Changbai Shan is a piece of heaven, and it certainly lives up to its name, which means “Ever-White Mountain.” Budding nature scientists will be in a proverbial paradise as they explore the explosion of animal, insect and plant life on this dormant volcano, which is also China’s largest nature reserve. This 210,000ha of dense virgin forest lies on the border of China’s Jilin Province and the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK). Created in 1961, the nature reserve is home to one of the most diverse mountain-forest ecosystems in Asia. Evergreen species like Korean pines and Japanese yews share the slopes with Mongolian oaks, dwarf birch and other deciduous trees.
The variation in plant and animal life is due to the changing altitudes. From the foot of the mountain to 1,000m are mixed coniferous and broad-leaved trees. Hardy and valuable coniferous trees like dragon spruce and fir can be found from 1,000m to 1,800m. Above 2,000m, only lichen survives. Within this treasure trove thrives over 300 medicinal plants such as the winter daphne and wild ginseng.
Changbai Shan Nature Reserve (chángbái shān zìrán bǎohù qū长白山自然保护区), designated by UNESCO as a nature reserve in 1979, is a vital wildlife zone. Though predators such as Siberian tigers, leopards, lynx, and brown bears prowl the forests, there’s no reason to shun the mountain. The lucky hiker might even catch a glimpse of elusive animals such as the shy deer, gorals, wild pigs, otters and dozens of other mammal species. Rare, endangered birds like hazel grouse, black storks, mandarin ducks and oriental storks also abound.
Sitting pretty atop Changbai Shan is the stunning Lake of Heaven (tiānchí天池). This feather on Changbai Shan’s cap was formed centuries ago by volcanic eruptions. Over time, water filled the vent and eventually formed an oval lake about 13km in circumference and 200m to 300m deep. 16 mountain peaks surround the Lake of Heaven like sentries guarding the watery gates of heaven. No birds, animals or flora distract one from its tranquil beauty. The highest peak, White Cloud Peak (báiyún fēng 白云峰), soars some 2,744m above sea level. When the fair skies fill with fluffy clouds, their reflection in the crystal-clear water, framed by jagged peaks, makes a heavenly composition.
Rough hiking trails aside, there are guaranteed views of babbling brooks, waterfalls and thermal springs. Just beside the Lake of Heaven is Changbai Lake (chángbái hú长白湖), also known as Little Lake of Heaven. Water from the Lake of Heaven careens into a roaring waterfall more than 60m high, nourishing the Yalu (yālùjiāng鸭绿江) and Songhua rivers (sōnghuājiāng 松花江), two of northeast China’s most important rivers.
Naturally, Changbai Shan has its fair share of fables. One myth is about the origins of the Manchu ethnic group, who are said to have sprung from the waters of the Lake of Heaven. Three celestial maidens visited the lake for a quick, albeit chilly dip. A magic magpie dropped an enchanted berry and one of the heavenly ladies picked it up, and when she ate the berry, she became pregnant. The baby boy she bore founded the warrior Manchu dynasty.
From 1677, this region was considered by the Manchu as their sacred homeland. No one was allowed to enter and log trees for over 200 years. Today, Manchus share the intoxicating Changbai Shan region with a large ethnic Korean population. By dress, the latter are indistinguishable from their Manchu counterparts, but they still retain some of their traditional practices and festivals. Friendly and hospitable, most ethnic Korean locals live north and northeast of Erdao Baihe Town (èrdào báihé zhèn二道白河镇) in the area known as the Korea Autonomous Prefecture.
SCALING SIGHTS
Traipsing through Changbai Shan’s wilderness can be adventurous or tame, but first get oriented. If your objective is the famous Lake of Heaven, the safest route is via the Northern Pass (běipō北坡) from Erdao Baihe, a small town some 20km south of the nature reserve’s southern entrance. You can also head to the lake via Tianchi Passage (tiānchí chángláng 天池长廊). This route costs RMB 25, but it’s also relatively safe – the other routes occasionally have rckslides. Alternatively, you can hop onto a jeep at the Athlete’s Village parking lot. They’ll take you up to the Lake of Heaven for RMB 80; this includes the admission price for the lake.
Day trippers can hop onto a jeep and arrive without breaking a sweat at the 2,670m high Tianwen Peak (tiānwén fēng天文峰), otherwise known as Main Peak (zhǔfēng 主峰). From the parking lot near Main Peak Road, there’s another 4km to go before you hear the roar of the stunning Changbai Waterfall (chángbái pùbù长白瀑布). If you’re game for a bit of trekking, the path to the Main Peak is a brief 15-minute hike from the left of the parking lot. There are 13 spectacular geysers around Changbai Waterfall.
If you are feeling slightly more adventurous, once you reach the waterfall, look around for a steep path that brings you to the top of the waterfall. If you follow this path for about an hour, you eventually reach Lake of Heaven. Getting off the main access road is not a good idea, unless you are an experienced hiker. The narrow, difficult 3km trail pointing downwards heads to the Underground Forest (dìxià sēnlín地下森林).
Hiking enthusiasts will enjoy a rockier version of Changbai Shan. Look out for a trail that branches off the road heading to Changbai Waterfall. This hour-long trail will take you through lush greenery towards Black Wind Pass (hēifēngkǒu 黑风口), where it can get extremely windy. The pavilion here offers fantastic views of the gushing Changbai Waterfall. Several hot springs bubble at 60°C to 80°C at the bottom of the pass. Choose a spot where people are not busy boiling eggs, and take a soothing bath – these hot springs are reputed to have healing properties. Re-energized, you may be able to reach Main Peak in 3 hours.
That was just appetizer; now for the main course. The first leg of a tough hike entails scaling past a perilous gorge onto a grassy slope – continue trudging up this slope for at least 2 hours. Once past Main Peak, look out for Huagai Peak (huágài fēng 华盖峰), just 2 hours from the DPRK border. Once you’ve reached this peak, then you’ve already navigated a quarter of the circumference of the Lake of Heaven. Take time to admire the geological treasures peculiar to Changbai Shan. In winter, skiing is an option on Changbai Shan.
If you follow a tiny trail off the main road, near the parking lot, you arrive at Little Lake of Heaven (xiǎotiānchí小天池). Pushing on, you hit the awe-inspiring Dragon Gate Peak (lóngmén fēng龙门峰) and after a challenging ascent, White Cloud Peak (báiyún fēng白云峰). Beyond this Peak is the Western Pass. The ascending hike between Little Lake of Heaven and White Cloud Peak takes about 6 hours, and it takes half that time to descend. Between Little Lake of Heaven and Western Pass is 10 hours of upward trekking, and 8 hours of descent.
If you visit via the Western Pass, you get to see the Changbai Shan Gorge (chángbáishān dàxiágǔ 长白山大峡谷), which is a frightful 10m deep valley formed from molten lava. Look carefully around you. Along this path is a tree that is in fact three different tree-species entwined as one. Pass the end of the 10km road is a flight of gravelly stairs that offers a panoramic view of the pass. An easy hour-long route leads you down to the Lake of Heaven. Just beneath the pass begins a strenuous trek to White Cloud Peak and Southern Pass.
Making Your Trip Easy
Area Code: 0433
Practical Tips
Getting to Changbai Shan is itself an adventure that requires grit. Buses and hired cars will drop you off at the main parking lot in the scenic area. Traipsing through Changbai Shan’s wilderness can be adventurous or tame, but be sure to bring hiking gear, a first-aid kit, food and enough water. The sun on the mountain can be very strong; make sure you bring plenty of sun block and your sunglasses.
Weather is unpredictable because of the high altitude. A fine day can suddenly turn cloudy and chilly. Waterproof jackets can be bought from the hawkers waiting at Tianchi bus stop. Be sure to bring enough layers, you can always add or remove them as you climb. The best time to visit the lake is from June to late-September when the lake and the road from Erdao Baihe to the nature reserve aren’t frozen over. If snow and skiing are on your mind, any other time is good.
Be sure not to cross the border into the DPRK when trekking around the lake – pay attention to the signs.
From late June to mid-July the western slope of the mountain holds an annual wild flower festival. The annual Changbai Snow Festival begins in mid-December and lasts until late-February.
Transportation
Airport – The closest airport to Changbai Shan is the Yanji International Airport. Yanji is about 5km away from the airport and it takes about 10 minutes to reach by car.
Bus – From Yanji to Changbai Shan is a RMB 55 bus ride from the long distance bus station.
Taxi – Taxies here don’t have meters – since Yanji is rather small, it only cost RMB 5 to get anywhere within the city. This goes for any of the small towns around the mountain.
Train – The train station is in Erdao Baihe Town, about 25km south of the nature reserve. From here you can catch a bumpy minibus into Changbai Shan between 6am to 12pm. Tickets costs about RMB 50. For greater flexibility, especially if you want more time to trek, consider hiring a driver with car for RMB 300.
The Best of Changbai Shan
Changbai Shan Scenic Area长白山风景区 chángbáishān fēngjǐngqū
Address: Erdao Baihe Town, Antu County 安图县二道白河镇
Phone: 571 0888, 571 0985
￥: 65, includes RMB 5 insurance, other spots in the scenic area have their own charge
Changbai Shan Underground Forest长白山地下森林chángbáishān dìxià sēnlín
Address: inside the Changbai Shan Scenic Area长白山风景区内
￥: 10
Changbai Waterfall长白山瀑布 chángbáishān pùbù
Address: inside the Changbai Shan Scenic Area长白山风景区内
￥: 15
Lake of Heaven长白山天池 chángbáishān tiānchí
Address: inside the Changbai Shan Scenic Area长白山风景区内
￥: 25 if via Tianchi Passage
Hotels
Yanbian Baishan Hotel延边白山大厦 yánbiān báishān dàshà ★★★★
Address: 2 Youyi Lu, Yanji 延吉市友谊路2号
Phone: 251 5956
￥: 580 – per person, peak-season; 380 – per person, off-season
Changbai Shan Dayu Hotel 长白山大宇饭店chángbáishān dàyǔ fàndiàn ★★★
Address: Erdaohe Town, Changbai Shan 长白山二道河镇
Phone: 574 6011, 574 6015
￥: 700 – per person, during the winter; 320 – per person, during the summer
Baishan Binguan báishān bīnguǎn ★★
Address: 169 An Jie, Mingyue Town, Antu County 安图县明月镇安街169号
Phone: 582 4447, 582 3008
￥: 160 – double room
Baishan Hotel白山大酒店 báishān dàjiǔdiàn ★★
Address: 5km from Changbai Shan’s entrance 长白山山门外五公里
Phone: 571 8777
￥: 280 – double room, peak-season; 140 – double room, off-season
Food & Restaurants
Food in Yanji is a mixture of different ethnic Manchurian and Korean styles. The emphasis here is on freshness and nutritional value. Cold noodles (lěngmiàn 冷面) are one of the better-known dishes. Being so close to the border of the DPRK, it’s natural that Korean food abounds. Try the sticky cake (dǎgāo 打糕); it’s a traditional Korean dish eaten during the New Year. Kimchi (cháoxiǎn pàocài 朝鲜泡菜), a spicy pickled cabbage is a tasty side dish that can be eaten on its own or added to dishes. Don’t forget to try the traditional Dongbei sausage (báiròu xuěcháng 白肉雪肠).
Several mini-guesthouses offer village fare in the Changbai Shan region. The proprietors are easy-going and the mood relaxed.
RESTAURANTS
Jindalai Restaurant 金达莱饭店
Offers Yanji cuisine, also known for its Korean dishes.
Address: 42 Hailan Lu, Yanji 延吉市海兰路42号
Phone: 251 3634
Opening hours: 9am to11pm
Yanji Meishi Jie延吉美食街
One street packed with food vendors.
Address: Hailan Lu, Yanji 延吉市海兰路
Opening hours: 9am to 11pm
Souvenirs
In Yanji check out the Antu Fuman Shengtai Cheng Shopping Center (安图福满生态城旅游购物中心) or the International Exhibition Center (延边国际会展中心) for your shopping needs. The exhibition center also features ethnic Korean performances.
While on the mountain, resist plucking forest tokens for souvenirs and don’t scrape your initials on the rocks. Beyond that, the Changbai Shan area offers quite a few unique souvenirs. The “three northeast treasures,” ginseng, fur and deer antlers, can be found here and are renowned throughout China.
Other Information
HOSPITALS
Yanbian Hospital 延边医院
Address: Renmin Lu, Yanji 延吉人民路
Phone: 266 0163
COMPLAINT HOTLINES
General: 571 0778
Taxi: 582 3036