Inner Mongolia has the lure of open grassy plains, herds of horses and sheep roaming freely while nomadic herdsmen watch over their flock, and a stretch of blue sky that eventually touches the green plains far off in the horizon.
Hohhot, the capital of the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, may not immediately stir images of a rough and ready frontier, but what this cosmopolitan city does offer is a gateway to the majesty of the grasslands which lie just beyond the city. The sights within the city shouldn’t be dismissed either. Once a political and cultural center, the relics of the past are strewn throughout. More than 36 ethnic groups live in Hohhot’s confines, with Mongolians making up about 9% of the population.
Bone fragments of early humans who lived in the area as early as 500,000 years ago have been found; these early ancestors are thought to be contemporaries of Peking Man. The first permanent establishment began about 2,300 years ago during the Warring States Period when the King of Zhao built the city – Yunzhong in the area. The merger of a 16th century Mongolian settlement and a city founded by Ming emperor Wanli has become present day Hohhot.
Though no longer apparent, the city was once a center of Buddhism with over 50 temples, although many are now in ruins. The Dazhao Temple (dàzhāo 大召), “zhao” means temple in Mongolian, was built in 1580 and is home to a 2.5m tall silver Buddha which the 3rd Dalai Lama came to personally bless in 1586. The 30,000m² complex is an interesting mix of Tibetan and Han architectural traditions.
The Xilitu Temple (xílìtú zhāo 席力图召), only 100m away from the Dazhao Temple is the largest and prettiest temple. It was built from 1567 to 1619 and has seen continual expansion. The 4th Dalai Lama’s teacher was the former abbot of this Lama temple and upon the accession of the 4th Dalai Lama; the temple was greatly expanded in honor of his teacher. The temple complex is mostly of traditional Han Chinese design, but the Dajing Hall (dàjīng táng 大经堂) features Tibetan styling. In the southeast corner is a 15m high tower. During the regularly held Buddhist festivals, colorful dancers wear intricate Tibetan style masks.
Just north of the Dazhao Temple is the Five Pagoda Temple (wǔtǎ sì五塔寺). This site was originally part of Cideng Temple (cídēng sì 慈灯寺), which had five pagodas. Only one pagoda remains in this smallish garden, the rest of the pagodas were unable to stand the test of time. The remaining pagoda stands a tall 16m and is topped with five smaller pagodas. Carved into the bottom of the pagoda are Buddhist scriptures in Tibetan, Mongolian and Han script. On the upper-tiers of the pagoda are more than a thousand gold plated Buddha figurines. On the northern wall, there’s a 1.45m long astronomical map in Mongolian, the only one of its kind.
About 9km south of Hohhot is the 30m high Tomb of Wang Zhaojun (zhāojūn mù昭君墓). Wang Zhaojun was a maid in waiting during the Western Han dynasty, who was renowned for her exceptional beauty and intelligence. Wang Zhaojun wasn’t an actual concubine; rather she was one of the many women who were concubine candidates. These women would live uneventful lives in the palace waiting for the emperor to choose them to grace his imperial bedchamber. When a northern Xiongnu chief asked for a Han princess to marry, the emperor decided to betroth Wang Zhaojun. At the wedding banquet the emperor was chagrined to discover her amazing beauty and exceptional wit. He later discovered that the court painter had purposely painted her ugly because the upright maiden refused to offer him a bribe. The able bride was now freed from the stifling palace and played an important role in keeping the peace between the Han dynasty and the northern tribes. Her tumulus, which is covered with trees and grass, is nicknamed the “Green Tomb” (qīng zhǒng 青冢) because, supposedly, the grass on the small mound remains green when all others wither with the arrival of cold weather.
One cannot mention Mongol without referring to one of the world’s most famous and feared figures of all time, Genghis Khan. From humble beginnings, the Great Khan united the feuding Mongolian tribes into an unstoppable war-machine that created an empire spreading from the Pacific Ocean to the doors of Western Europe. Genghis Khan conquered all within his path and was known for integrating new ideas and foreign personnel if they were useful. His mounted warriors were so feared in Europe that their coming was considered the coming of the Apocalypse.
Genghis died in 1227 battling the Western Xia in China’s northwest. According to Mongolian tradition of the time, nobles would be buried at a place of their own choosing and Genghis’ chosen site has yet to be discovered. According to legend, after he was buried, horses were herded over his tomb and once the grass had returned, the 2,000 laborers who built his tomb were killed by 800 soldiers, who in turn were executed to keep the location a secret.
The Genghis Khan Mausoleum (chéngjísīhán líng 成吉思汗陵) isn’t close to Hohhot, but it deserves special mention. The mausoleum is best reached by long-distance buses; the closest cities are Baotou and Dongsheng. The towering blue roofed domes of the three yurt-like structures will rise about the plain long before you actually arrive. A massive 5m tall statue of the Khan on horseback gazes out over the grasslands he once roamed and ruled. Though his remains aren’t actually housed in the mausoleum, there are enough artifacts here to keep any would-be world conqueror occupied. Weapons, saddles and numerous other artifacts including replica of his, his wives’ and brothers’ coffins around displayed throughout the mausoleum.
The mausoleum is an important pilgrimage destination for ethnic Mongolians and chances are you’ll meet groups of Mongolians who’ve come here to pay their respects to their most famous kin.
About 90km away from Hohhot is Xilamuren (xīlāmùrén希拉穆仁), where the Great Wall runs across Inner Mongolia. Here one can experience life on the grasslands and in a yurt, a traditional Mongolian tent-like structure made from sheep’s hide. While it isn’t completely authentic, it’s a resort after all, on the flipside; the rough living of nomadic life has been toned down in favor of comfort and convenience. Horseback riding, performances by traditional dancers and singers as well as treks into the hinterland are all available. The more adventurous might want to try some camel riding or how about going head-to-head with a Mongolian wrestler?
Visiting a Mongolian family inside on their yurts offers an interesting glimpse into a rapidly changing lifestyle. Mongolians are famous for their hospitality (despite what you may think of Genghis) and many tour packages include a stay with a family. A small gift is a great ice-breaker; tea is an always welcomed gift.
A great time to visit Inner Mongolia is during Nadaam Festival (nàdámù 那达慕) when traditional Mongolian competitions such as wrestling, archery and horse and camel races occur. The festival is the high point for the Mongolians and every year families from throughout the region congregate around Hohhot in a makeshift campground. The festival’s date depends on the Mongolian lunar calendar, but usually falls from mid-July to mid-August.
Making Your Trip Easy
Area Code: 0471
Practical Tips
The best travel time is from July to September. The weather is mild and the animals most active.
Transportation
Airport – Baita Airport is east of Hohhot, about 9km from downtown. It takes 15 minutes by taxi or 30 minutes by airport shuttle bus from the airport to downtown.
Taxi – Flag-fall is RMB 6.
The Best of Hohhot
Dazhao Temple 大召dàzhāo
Address: Dazhao Qian Jie, Yuquan District 玉泉区大召前街
Phone: 630 3154
Opening hours:8am to 6pm
￥: 10
Tomb of Wang Zhaojun 昭君墓zhāojūn mù
Address: 6km south of Hohhot 呼和浩特市南6公里处
Phone:515 0201
Opening hours: 8am to 6pm
￥: 18
Hotels
Inner Mongolia Hotel 内蒙古饭店 nèiměnggǔ fàndìan ★★★★★
Address: Wulanchabu Xi Lu 乌兰察布西路
Phone: 693 8888
￥: 788 – double room
Website: www.nmghotel.com
Phoenix Hotel 内蒙古国航大厦 nèiměnggǔ guόháng dàshà ★★★★
Address: Xincheng Bei Jie 新城北街
Phone: 660 8888
￥: 600 – double room
Website: www.ni-phoenix.com.cn
Yitai Hotel 内蒙古伊泰大酒店 nèiměnggǔ yītài dàjiǔdiàn ★★★★
Address:69 Dongying Nan Jie, Saihan Lu 赛罕路东影南街69号
Phone: 223 3388
￥: 688 – double room, peak-season; 383 – double room, off- season
Website: www.yt-hotel.com
Pearl Inner Mongolia Hotel 草原明珠大酒店 cǎoyuán míngzhū dàjiǔdiàn ★★★
Address: 2 Xincheng Bei Jie 新城北街2号
Phone: 660 8800
￥: 600 – double room, peak-season; 560 – double room, off-season
Website: www.pearl-hotel.com
Zhaojun Hotel 昭君大酒店 zhāojūn dàjiǔdiàn ★★★
Address:53 Xinhua Da Jie 新华大街53号
Phone: 696 2211
￥: 600 – double room, peak-season; 260 – double room, off-season
Food & Restaurants
The food of Hohhot combines a mixture of northern Chinese and ethnic Mongolian flavors. Traditional Mongolian dishes include roasted whole sheep (kǎoquányáng 烤全羊), milk tea (nǎichá 奶茶) and oat flour noodles (yóumiàn 莜面). For you gluttons, the roasted sheep is daubed with salt then coated with a mixture of chopped ginger, scallions and pepper. It’s then roasted in an oven for about an hour when it turns golden brown. Milk tea is a traditional favourite of the Mongolians. It’s made with hot tea and fresh milk; some like to add a little salt, butter or cooked millet to the tea. Shoupa rou (手扒肉) is a popular traditional dish that has been enjoyed for thousands of years. Mutton is simply boiled and when it’s cooked, diners help themselves using their hands or small knives. Shao mei (稍美) is a kind of steamed dumpling that’s a local delicacy, with an irresistible aroma.
Visiting a traditional yurt and having a down-home traditional Mongolian meal is one of the most genuine experiences of visiting Inner Mongolia. While eating mutton in Mongolia, there are some important traditions to follow if you’re the guests of a Mongolian. Guests shouldn’t help themselves to the meat; let the host select which cuts of meat you eat. Depending on seniority and whether the guest is a man or woman, different parts are served.
RESTAURANTS
Banmudi Youmian Dawang 半亩地莜面大王
Specializes in local home-style dishes and is famous for oat flour noodle feast (yóumiàn yàn 莜面宴).
Address: Jiwei Ganxiao, Tuanjie Xiaoqu 团结小区计委干校
Phone: 466 2286
Caoyuan Cheng 草原城
Specializes in roasted sheep, roasted sheep back, shoupa rou and milk tea, also had traditional singing and dancing.
Address: south of 5303 Factory, Huha Lu 呼哈路5303工厂南
Phone: 658 7899
Maixiangcun Jiulou 麦香村酒楼
Good for traditional dishes and is renowned for its delicious shao mei.
Address: 44 Da Bei Jie 大北街44号
Phone: 631 5068
Menggu Daying 蒙古大营
Favorites include roasted sheep, roasted sheep back and milk tea, make reservations at least 6 hours ahead if you feel like downing a roasted sheep.
Address: Menggu Daying, Saima Chang,Hulunbeier Bei Lu呼伦贝尔北路赛马场蒙古大营
Phone: 651 6868
Xiao Feiyang小肥羊
Authentic hotpot.
Address: Wulanchabu Dong Lu 乌兰察布东路
Phone: 490 1998
TEAHOUSES
E’erguna Tea Bar 鄂尔古纳茶吧
Address: 1/F, Inner Mongolian Hotel, Wulanchabu Xi Lu 乌兰察布西路内蒙古饭店一层
Phone: 693 8888
Heavenly Pool Tea 天池茶艺
Address: inside the Inner Mongolia Stadium, 14 Xinhua Da Jie 新华大街14号内蒙古体育馆院内
Phone: 639 6599
Souvenirs
Mongolian knives (měnggǔ dāo 蒙古刀), clothes, silver jewelry, leather products and rugs (guàtǎn 挂毯) are great souvenirs to grab while in Hohhot. The Mongolian knife is both an ornamental and a practical tool for everyday use – most locals carry one on their belts. While not fine china, bowls (yínwǎn 银碗) made of pure silver, silver alloys or wood have unique designs carved into them. If you’re looking for a unique beer mug, get a jiemeng bei (结盟杯), which are cups made from horns and are decorated with silver. These cups were used by neighboring tribes in which they would share a drink to seal an alliance or as a mark of friendship.
Head over to Wutasi Dong Jie (五塔寺东街) and check out the Foreign Trade Arts and Crafts Factory of Inner Mongolia (nèiměnggǔ wàimào gōngyìpǐn chǎng 内蒙古外贸工艺品厂, 597 3591) for your souvenir needs. About 300m west of Huagong Lu (化工路) is the Mengliang Arts and Crafts Factory (méngliàng gōngyìpǐn chǎng 蒙亮工艺品厂, 396 7681), which produces Mongolian souvenirs.
Other Information
POST OFFICES
Zhongshan Lu Post Office 中山路邮局
Address: 3 Zhongshan Dong Lu 中山东路3号
Phone: 692 5579
HOSPITALS
Inner Mongolia Hospital 内蒙古医院
Address: 20 Zhaowuda Lu 昭乌达路20号
Phone: 662 0000
Inner Mongolia Medical University Hospital 内蒙古医学院附属医院
Address: 1 Tongdao Bei Jie 通道北街1号
Phone: 696 5931
COMPLAINT HOTLINES
General: 466 9766
Taxi: 396 5296
Entertainment
Erdos Wedding Ceremony Performance 鄂尔多斯婚礼表演
Performs traditional Mongolian weddings dances.
Address: Mongolian Custom Garden 蒙古风情园
Phone: 496 9993
Zhama Feast 诈马宴
Its dishes traces back to the imperial cuisine of the Yuan dynasty, a huge feast with Yuan era dancing and singing.
Address: Mongolian Custom Garden 蒙古风情园
Phone: 496 9993