Heritage: Wulingyuan Scenic and Historic Interest Area
With primeval forests, rocky crags and rushing streams, Zhangjiajie is a sublimely beautiful place to explore nature’s bounty. Be sure to bring lots of film and a good pair of shoes.
Stashed away in a remote northwestern corner of Hunan Province, bordering Guizhou and Chongqing, is the Wulingyuan Scenic Reserve (wǔlíngyuán fēngjǐngqū 武陵源风景区), better known as Zhangjiajie. Wisely set aside in 1982 as one of China’s first nature reserves, Wulingyuan protects an astounding variety of flora, fauna and minority tribes. The area has been given a UNESCO World Heritage listing, so extensive protection is in place, such as a complete fire ban (including smoking), conveniently placed rubbish bins and flagged erosion-resistance paths.
The reserve is home to three of China’s minority groups, the Tujia, Miao, and Bai who continue to carry on their traditional ways. In Zhangjiajie Village (zhāngjiājiè cūn 张家界村), there is a Museum of Tujia Culture (tǔjiā wénhuà bówùguǎn 土家文化博物馆) focusing on traditional handicrafts. Traditional song and dance performances are held here and are a great way to get a taste of the local color. This is not simply a show to make the tourists happy, but is a family run center with aims of cultural preservation. The Tujia are suspected by some to be the last remaining descendants of western China’s mysterious prehistoric Ba Kingdom.
Low cloud coverage and an endless array of streams often leave the reserve covered in a primordial mist. Original vegetation still covers 60% of the park and includes some 550 different species of trees. Some highlights include rare dove trees, ginkos and dawn redwoods, which were, until 1948, believed to be extinct. Highly prized medicinal herbs used in Chinese traditional medicine spring from the valley floor and grow on the high peaks.
In the less crowded parts live wild animals and many species of rare bird. Rhesus monkeys, giant salamanders, civets, golden pheasants and tragopans populate the vast expanse of forest. It’s a fairytale land of sandstone cliffs and fractured limestone pinnacles and lush subtropical foliage laced with clear, fast green streams covers the forest floor.
As would be expected from a nature reserve, most of the highlights are scenic spots. Atop a mountain peak, one of the most popular is Huangshi Village (huángshí zhài 黄石寨). For those inclined to hike, it’ll take around 2 hours to get up the 3,878 stone steps, or for those who prefer to watch, a cable car whips you up to the top for RMB 48.
Located in the northern section of the reserve, the highest point, Tianzi Peak (tiānzǐ shān 天子山), at 1,250m, provides stunning views of the park and a top-of-the-world feeling for those who make the climb. As in most Chinese parks, poets and artists have been visiting for thousands of years and have given imaginative names to many lookouts, gorges and peaks.
For fans of caves, Zhangjiajie has enough to please. Jiutian Cave (jiǔtiān dòng 九天洞), featuring Asia’s largest chamber, is a massive limestone affair. Somewhat more accessible and located on the main trail in from Tianzi Shan Village (tiānzǐshān cūn 天子山村) is Shuanghe Cave (shuānghé dòng 双合洞). Suoxi Valley (suǒxī yù 索溪峪) features the Yellow Dragon Cave (huánglóng dòng 黄龙洞), a series of limestone caverns interconnected by a subterranean river.
Another option growing more popular by the year is whitewater rafting. Although Zhangjiajie’s rivers have not earned much renown, the neighboring Mengdong River (měngdòng hé 猛洞河) is one of China’s most popular stretches for river rafting. While the rapids are nothing death-defying, the clarity of the water and solitude of the high mountains and lush forests that continues to draw visitors. In these sparsely populated cliffs and gorges, it is not uncommon to see monkeys swinging through the treetops and reaching into the water for fish.
ZHANGJIAJIE’S HEAVENLY TRAILS
For sheer highlights and a chance to more fully take in the awesome splendor of Wulingyuan, few options surpass hiking along the numerous trails interlacing the mountains, gullies and forests.
The high plateau surrounding the reserve only serves to accentuate the dramatic pinnacles and crags of Zhangjiajie. It creates the illusion that the ground is opening up at the valley floor, shattering the earth into forested towers of rock.
For hiking and exploring Zhangjiajie, there are numerous trails waiting to be traversed. From Zhangjiajie Village, the road leads down to the park entrance where single and multi-day passes can be purchased. Sedan chairs can also be hired to carry you along the trails for around RMB 100.
Branching left after the main gate, on the trail to Huangshi Village is a 4-hour circuit winding through a lush, forested valley. The crisp, clear Pipa Stream (pípá xī 琵琶溪) gurgles along to the left of the path, crossed by several bridges. Along the way, there are numerous pagodas and viewing platforms ideal for a rest stop or a picnic lunch beneath the shadows of the mighty Double Pagoda Peak (shuāngtǎ fēng 双塔峰).
To the right of the entrance are several different paths. The shortest, also clocking around 4 hours, follows the Golden Whipple Stream (jīnbiān xī金鞭溪). Filled with colorful fish and the occasional turtle, this stream also makes a great bathing spot in the warmer summer months. Following a heavenly valley for several kilometers, the path then branches off and returns to the entrance beneath the Yearning Couple (fūqī yán夫妻岩). These two rock pinnacles face each other in a longing gaze telling the story of forbidden lovers who chose to be frozen as rocks rather than face a life apart.
Another option, bearing left from the main trail, crosses the Bewitching Terrace (míhún tái 迷魂台), named after vistas so stunning that it is haunting to behold. The Shadao Valley is a lesser-visited section of the park and though it’s physically more challenging, it reveals Zhangjiajie in its scenic splendor and silence. Tracing the western edge of the plateau, the trail continues through marvelous scenery to the Black Dragon Village (hēilóng cūn 黑龙村), a small mountain hamlet of wood and stone homes, before returning to the park gates. Possibly because it’s a full day’s walk, this route is less popular and you should have it more or less to yourself.
To explore the north and east of the Wulingyuan reserve, it’s best to base yourself at Suoxi Valley. Though it has many of the food and lodging options as Wulingyuan Village, being off the tourist track has helped to better preserve its idyllic feel. Although it’s only 10km to the park entrance, the walk takes several hours. Set amidst river-filled gorges, there are opportunities here to raft in between the numerous rocky peaks. It’s also possible to hike up a precipitous staircase to the mile-long Baofeng Lake (bǎofēng hú 宝峰湖) where, in the early morning hours, giant salamanders occasionally bask on the lakeshore.
From Suoxi Valley, a 30km trail in the Tianzi Shan region, takes travelers to the highest peak in the reserve. Following the Ten Li Corridor (shílǐ huàláng 十里画廊), the trail leads past the Spirit Palace Bay (shéntáng wān 神堂湾), where dagger like rocks point up from the valley floor.
Next to the actual Tianzi Peak is the Immortals’ Bridge (xiānrén qiáo 仙人桥), a narrow rock ledge bridging a cavernous gorge. Trying to cross the bridge is ill-advised but, it’s a stunning scene combining Zhangjiajie’s grotesque rock formations, spiny pinnacles, valley floors and swirling streams. From here continue on to Tianzi Village where lodging can be had for the night. Hike out of the village the following morning and return to Zhangjiajie by foot or catch a bus back to civilization.
Hiking options in Zhangjiajie are numerous and many unmarked paths also lead to fantastic scenes. For those who prefer less strenuous activity but still want to explore the park, pick up a map and watch for trail signs. The trails are generally well-marked. Take it at your own pace and don’t forget to stop every now and again to take in the majestic scenery that awaits.
Making Your Trip Easy
Area Code 0744
Practical Tips
Almost any time of the year is good for visiting Zhangjiajie. Though winter can be cold, snowfall turns the reserve into a winter wonderland. The dense foliage and high elevation make the hot Chinese summers tolerable. As with any temperate zone, spring is filled with blossoms and fresh scents while autumn’s riot of color is borne through the changing colors of the leaves. Although the trails are well marked, the reserve is huge and it’s possible to get lost especially if you leave the main paths. It’s best to take a map and a flashlight and when in doubt, ask a local.
Though the entire reserve covers some 370km – most people base themselves at either Zhangjiajie City near the train station or at Zhangjiajie Village on the reserve’s southern edge in the Wuling foothills. For reasons of convenience and beauty, most notably the surrounding rock walls and towering peaks, the latter is preferable. Although both areas are filled with noisy karaoke joints and overpriced restaurants, the natural paradise of Zhangjiajie is close by.
One thing to note, there are no overnight facilities in the Wulingyuan Scenic Area, so you’ll have to leave the park to find a hotel. The RMB 158 entrance fee gives you two days to visit, this also includes all transportation within the park.
Transportation
Airport – The airport is 10km west of Zhangjiajie city, which is still 33km from the park entrance, but there are shuttle buses into the city. Zhangjiajie airport has connections to most major Chinese cities.
Bus – Minibuses stop in front of the city’s train and bus stations and take about one hour to reach the village. There are also buses to Tianzi Shan and Suoxi Valley. Long distance buses connect Zhangjiajie to Changsha.
Taxi – Taxis run between Zhangjiajie City, Zhangjiajie Village and the park entrance. When visiting other sights, it’s best to negotiate a price first – distances are often difficult to judge in this mountainous region.
Train – Train service has greatly improved cutting the trip from Changsha to a mere 5 hours. There are also trains to Zhengzhou, Guangzhou and other regional centers.
The Best of Wulingyuan
Baofeng Lake 宝峰湖 bǎofēng hú
Address: inside the Suoxi Valley Scenic Spot 索溪峪风景区内
Phone: 562 9888, 561 6609
￥: 62
Huangshi Village黄石寨 huángshí zhài
Address: inside the Wulingyuan Scenic Area 武陵源风景区内
Phone: 561 1098
Tianzi Shan 天子山 tiānzǐ shān
Address: inside the Wulingyuan Scenic Area 武陵源风景区内
Phone: 561 1098
Hotels
Zhangjiajie International Hotel 张家界国际大酒店 zhāngjiājiè guójì dàjiǔdiàn ★★★★
Address: 42 Sanjiaoping, Yongding District 永定区三角坪42号
Phone: 822 2888, 823 0966, 830 3019
￥: 360 – double room, peak-season; 320 – double room, off-season
Website: www.zjj-hotel.com
Zhangjiajie Minnan International Hotel 张家界闽南国际酒店 zhāngjiājiè mǐnnán guójì jiǔdiàn ★★★★
Address: 18 Ziwu Xi Lu 紫舞西路18号
Phone: 822 8888
￥: 789 – double room
Website: www.mn-hotel.com
Jianghan Mountain Villa 江汉山庄 jiānghàn shānzhuāng ★★★
Address: Wulingyuan District 武陵源区
Phone: 561 8122
￥: 240 – double room, peak-season; 180 – double room, off-season
Website: www.zjjtour.com/jh
Wulingyuan Hotel 武陵源宾馆 wǔlíngyuán bīnguǎn ★★★
Address: 192 Wuling Dadao, Wulingyuan District 武陵源区武陵大道192号
Phone: 561 5888
￥: 280 – double room, peak-season; 180 – double room, off-season
Zhangjiajie Genli International Hotel 张家界亘立国际酒店 zhāngjiājiè gènlì guójì jiǔdiàn ★★★
Address: Zhongduan, Wuling Dadao, Wulingyuan District武陵源区武陵大道中段
Phone: 562 5999
￥: 330 – double room, peak-season; 98 – double room, off-season
Website: www.genlihotel.com
Food & Restaurants
China’s mountainous regions are known for eating strange things and the Hunanese are known for loving spicy food. Zhangjiajie comes through on both counts. The mountain’s wide variety of mushrooms often work their way into the cuisine as do other ingredients known for their healing or health boosting properties. As Zhangjiajie is a heavily toured area, many standard Chinese favorites are available as well. Most of the food is quite good but beware of the ubiquitous tourist trap. Enquire about the price before you order and beware of eating any expensive dishes that may contain endangered species.
Tujia flavors predominate with dishes like Tujia hotpot (tǔjiā huǒguō土家火锅); deep-fried bee eggs (yóuzhá yěfēngluǎn 油炸野蜂卵) and tuanniancai (团年菜) are typical dishes. Tujia snacks such as ge fen (葛粉), rice wine (mǐ jiǔ 米酒), cold noodles (liáng fěn凉粉), and baba (粑粑) are tasty diversions. Tuan niancai, which means something like “yearly reunion,” is traditionally eaten by the Tujia during the New Year, a time when they would reflect on and pay tribute to their ancestors. Other local specialties include wild rabbit (yětù 野兔), snake soup (shé tāng蛇汤) and dog meat hotpot (gǒuròu huǒguō狗肉火锅). For lovers of spicy food, try the wild mountain pepper beef (yěshānjiāo niúròu 野山椒牛肉). Breakfast generally consists of steamed meat buns (bāozi包子) noodles (miàn tiáo面条) and wonton (húntún馄饨).
RESTAURANTS
Jinfuli Jiudian 金富丽酒店
Specialized in Tujia cuisine.
Address: 89 Ziwu Lu, Zhangjiajie 张家界市紫舞路89号
Phone: 830 0278
Opening hours: 8am to 10pm
Minzu Shanzhuang 民族山庄
A Tujia managed lodge with dining room.
Address: inside Zhangjiajie National Forest Park张家界国家森林公园内
Phone: 571 2516, 571 9188
Opening hours: 24 hours
Sanxiaguo 三下锅
Serves a kind of hot pot.
Address: Fengwan Bridge, Lingyuan Bei Lu 陵园北路凤湾大桥
Phone: 9am to 9pm
Yuntai Dajiudian 云台大酒店
Address: 34 Ziwu Lu, Zhangjiajie 张家界市紫舞路34号
Phone: 823 5168
Opening hours: 24 hours
Souvenirs
Zhangjiajie is located in the heart of the wilds of western Hunan in a region that most ordinary people have only begun to explore. Local tribes, however, have lived here for hundreds and thousands of years and continue to make many of the handicrafts that were passed on to them through the generations. Minority handicrafts include finely woven baskets with black line patterns and intricately embroidered shoe insteps. Weavings and embroideries make up the bulk of the handicrafts. Wooden buckets and bamboo cradles are some of the other local specialties.
Also plentiful in this region are Chinese medicinal plants and herbs. Many different kinds of mushrooms are for sale and locals often display their goods along the trails. Ask for advice from local experts before buying or consuming anything that has medicinal properties – they can be dangerous if used improperly.
The Junsheng Gallery (jūnshēng huàyuàn 军声画院) on Ziwu Lu (子午路, 830 1239) is where artist Li Junsheng displays his sandstone art (jūnshēng shāshíhuà 军声砂石画). Using different plants, his creations infuse the natural colors of the sandstones with the artist’s imagination. Prices range from RMB 200 to 5,000. Tujia embroidery (tǔjiā zhījǐn 土家织锦) is a popular buy here. You can get some good samples at the Museum of Tujia Culture.
Other Information
POST OFFICES
Zhangjiajie City Post Office 张家界市邮政局
Address: Daqiao Lu 大桥路
Phone: 822 6898
HOSPITALS
Zhangjiajie People’s Hospital 张家界市人民医院
Address: Tianmen Lu 天门路
Phone: 822 2270
COMPLAINT HOTLINES
General: 838 0188, 823 3754