Flowers bloom all year round on this subtropical climate, walk 20 minutes in any direction and you’ll find a park with shady banyan trees and intoxicatingly sweet flowers.
Xiamen, known for centuries as Amoy, is an ancient island gateway to China. The city was part of the Maritime Silk Road and the heart of Chinese maritime trade. Xiamen was founded in the 14th century as a Ming dynasty trade center and outpost to defend against Japanese pirates. Following the defeat of the Ming by Qing forces in 1644, Xiamen became a stronghold of resistance under the famous general Zheng Chenggong, better known in the West as Koxinga (guóxìngyé 国姓爷), his Ming title.
Geographically close to Taiwan, Xiamen shares similar cuisine, dialect and customs as many Taiwanese originally came from Minnan, an area of southern Fujian Province. In 1841, the British forced Xiamen to open its port and it became one of the first treaty ports in China. People in Xiamen still cling onto traditions that have long been discontinued in other parts of China – in almost every home can be found a shrine, where people light incense and give offerings of food and prayers. When meandering among the zigzagging old lanes in the evenings, you can often hear the gong and high-pitch singing of Minnan opera.
GULANGYU’S MUSIC
Across the Lujiang Channel, a 10-minute ferry ride from Xiamen is Gulangyu (gǔlàngyǔ 鼓浪屿), a 1.78km-island. Gulangyu and Xiamen was once the habitat of a species of heron called egrets, today these gorgeous birds are a protected species. Some egrets can still be seen lounging around the beaches and waters.
Although the island became home to a non-native and unwelcome species when it officially became a foreign concession in 1903, foreign settlement had already begun much earlier when Xiamen became a treaty port in the 19th century. The foreigners who settled here, like in all concession areas, built the island in their own image. The island is an architectural museum of Victorian and Neo-Classical colonial buildings – churches, villas and Christian cemeteries all lend to a Mediterranean feel. A ban on vehicles and bicycles and their accompanying horns helps maintain its quaint colonial charm and your peace of mind. For people dazed by horns, noise and pollution in big cities, this should be your first stop.
The 93m high Sunlight Rock (rìguāng yán 日光岩), the highest point of this island, is the dominating landmark making it a useful reference when strolling through the twisting streets. There’s also the Koxinga Museum (Zhèng Chéngōng jìniànguǎn 郑成功纪念馆), a tribute to the Ming trader turned patriot. Koxinga was born in Japan to a Japanese mother and a Chinese father who was a powerful maritime merchant. When the Qing dynasty overthrew the Ming dynasty, Koxinga found himself torn between supporting the Ming resistance or joining his father in support of the Qing forces. Ultimately, he chose to fight the Qing and at the height of his power he was able to resist the Qing forces, but slowly the Qing were able to encroach on his territory, he then moved his base to Taiwan where he evicted the Dutch and ended their 40-year presence on the island. The museum displays artifacts from the era and offers good views of the surrounding area; it’s also close to the beach.
Once you enter the island’s residential area, you’ll begin to hear the soft echo of music. Gulangyu is also called “Piano Island” by locals, piano music drifts from the villas and lingers throughout the island’s narrow streets, many a famous Chinese musician hail from Xiamen; perhaps the calm breeze from the ocean and the languid pace of life is conducive to musical genius. Every May there’s an international music festival, and piano competitions and music festivals are also frequently held. On Huangyan Lu, on the way to Sunlight Rock, there’s a concert hall where classical concerts are regularly held on weekends. Along Gangzaihou Beach (gǎngzǎihòu hǎitān 港仔后海滩) is Shuzhuang Garden (shūzhuāng huāyuán 菽庄花园), where Asia’s largest piano museum is located. There are also a couple of churches on Gulangyu, with the Trinity Church (sānyī táng 三一堂) on Anhai Lu being the largest. At night you can sometimes hear the choir singing hymns.
Back in Xiamen, the Nanputuo Temple (nánpǔtuó sì 南普陀寺) is a major destination for Buddhists. Situated at the foot of the Five Old Men Peak (wǔlǎofēng五老峰) and next to Xiamen University (xiàmén dàxué 厦门大学), this peaceful temple is over 1,000 years old and is Xiamen’s oldest sight. Look for the character fo (佛), which means Buddha in Chinese, carved into a rock, at 4.6m it’s hard to miss.
Next to Nanputuo Temple is Xiamen University, founded in 1921 by the wealthy Chen Jiageng, known as Tan Kah-kee in the local dialect, who made his fortune in Singapore. Chen’s philanthropy was widespread, sponsoring many schools in his native Jimei, just east of Xiamen. The architecture of Xiamen University is a blend of Minnan and western styles and the art college houses the Chinese European Art Center, where exhibitions of modern art by Chinese and European artists are regularly held.
On the southeast end of the campus and next to the beach is the Hulishan Cannon Fort (húlǐshān pàotái 胡里山炮台) where the biggest ancient cannon in Asia is on display. North of the university is the Ten Thousand Rock Botanical Garden (wànshí zhíwùyuán 万石植物园) which is full of subtropical plants and rocks of whimsical shapes.
Starting from the Baicheng Beach (báichéng hǎitān 白城海滩) next to Xiamen University is the scenic Island Ring Road (huándǎo lù 环岛路). Rent a bicycle and tour along the most beautiful beach in Xiamen and you’ll pass by strawberry fields, and be bathed in the soft sea breeze. If you’re tired, sit down and grab some barbeque in Huangcuo or Ye Fengzhai and watch the kites sail through the cloudless sky while listening to the waves lap onto the sandy beach.
40 minutes southwest of Xiamen by bus is Changtai, where the Changtai River Club offers a range of activities such as whitewater rafting (piāoliú 漂流), parachuting, rock-climbing and other less-than-soothing activities. Contact them at http://www.fjdyp.com. Water lovers should head for Dongshan Island, a 4-hour bus ride from the Wucun bus station. Clean and clear beaches, swimming, water-skiing and windsurfing await.