Tie-dye is a dyeing technique similar with the arts of batik, also adopts dye-resistant technique. The difference is that batik parts of the fabric not intended to be dyed are covered with removable wax; but tie-dye parts of fabric are enlaced and bundled in order to resist to be dyed. The bundled parts of fabric show the natural color transition generating various beautiful patterns, as the permeation of the dyestuff.
Tie-dye has centuries-old history in China. Far back to 1300 years ago, the cloth made by tie-dye technique had been popular in Tang Dynasty. One emperor of Song Dynasty once claimed to forbid the civil use of tie-dye technique and title it for royal family only in 10th centre. The ancients of White Nation, a minority of China, already knew this dyeing technique greatly well over 1000 years ago, and had developed this technique to be a unique part of the culture of White Nation.
The tie-dye technique is very special, and the material used is far more ordinary. The wise ancients of White Nation adopt Indigowoad Root, a kind of antipyretic medicine as we know, as the dyestuff. So that the dyed cloths will not harm people’s skin and generate natural and inornate color. The cloths for dyeing usually are pure white homemade cloths or cotton-and-hemp blended white cloths. Various patterns will be painted on the cloths before dyeing, mainly composing of dots, anomalous circles and other simple geometrical patterns. Tie-dye made by White Nation draw patterns from various aspects, including local landscapes, clouds, flowers, birds, fishes, bugs and legends etc.
However, producing works in good quality is very hard, even the technique of tie-dye is not so complicated. Firstly, the cloths shall be plasm faded and blanched before dyeing for ensuring the color in equality. Secondly, the cloths will be blended in different ways according to the patterns request. And then craftsman will dip the blended cloths into color plasm over several times, one more time the cloths dip into color plasm, the deeper color will get at last, until the ideal color is reached. At last, the finished cloths will be torn open and pressed with iron after airing.
In the whole processes of dyeing, the key step is the methods of how to blend. Various methods of blending could be generally classified into three categories, which also has lots of varieties in each category but could adopt in one single work generating even more vibrant patterns.
First, enlacing method: it is a method that enlaces the cloths with cotton thread or hemp rope following the advanced designs, such as holding tight on one point, or wrinkling into strips, or folding in various shapes.
Circle enlacing method: This method is to enlace tight the cloths on one point with threads, which can make circling patterns in same size or range from small or larger circles. This method is a very simple way to make curtain or skirts.
Folded enlacing method is the technique that has the broadest application in tie-dye. The folio enlaced cloths dip into color plasm to dye into symmetrical patterns; dual-direction seriate patterns is made after several folded. The familiar pattern of butterfly is just made by this method.
Second, twist sewing method. This method uses the ways of twisting, sewing and enlacing to dye. Different methods of sewing make different patterns. This method is easy to use, and could completely use imagination of the designers.
Flattened sewing method sews the patterns with raw edge flattened, turned under and stitched down. This method could make liner lineable patterns, or follower shape, or leaves shape.
Circling sewing method sews on the cloths in circles to make patterns. One way is to fold the cloths and then sew as shown in the picture; the other way is to draw circles on the cloths with chalk, and stitch down in two layers.
Third, nip sewing method uses boards, bamboo boards, bamboo clips or bamboo sticks shaped in circle, triangle and hexagon nip the cloths together and being blended with threads to resist dyeing. The effect of incondite ice pattern appears on the cloths between two plywoods. Comparing with the enlacing method, this method generates more clearly patterns of white and black, and richer color and luster.
Folded-nip sewing method is the method using wood strips, nipping the cloths together in order to make symmetrical patterns.